Hee.. I noticed after posting that you'd said you're not too keen on westerns. For the record, the western-ness was one of my stumbling blocks to paying attention to the series, too.

(Well, that and the fandom's reputation as being AU-central. Which is sorta screwy, now that I think of it. "Oh, it's a western? No thanks. But it's not always a western? Even worse." *_*)